Cast Iron Care Information

My LP gas grill won't get hotter than 250º to 300º F, even with all burners on high. Why?
What is a BTU?
Are more BTU's better?
Why is cast iron considered better for cooking grids?
Why is it important to season cast iron grids?
My ignitor button doesn’t work anymore. What could have gone wrong?
I see what I think is peeling paint inside the lid of my grill! What should I do?
Where do I find the model and serial number on my barbecue?
Can I convert my liquid propane barbecue to natural gas (or vice-versa)?
What is an Overfill Protection Device propane tank?
I see what I think is peeling paint inside the lid of my grill! What should I do?
LP Tank Life
Noted isssues with OPD tanks
Burner Materials
Cooking Grills Materials
Troubleshooting

My LP gas grill won't get hotter than 250º to 300º F, even with all burners on high. Why?
Since 1995 all regulators (the part that attaches to the gas tank to regulate the flow of gas) have included a safety device that restricts the flow of gas in the event of a gas leak. This safety device can be inadvertently activated in two ways, putting the grill into what is commonly called “bypass”. The first way for the device to be activated is to leave one or more burner control knobs in the “ON” position when the LP cylinder valve is opened. The second is not to wait long enough to “start” the grill after opening the LP cylinder valve. The safety device in the regulator is activated each time that the LP cylinder valve is opened. The device resets itself when the gas pressure equalizes between the closed burner control valve and the regulator, through the hose. If a burner control knob is turned on before the gas pressure can equalize, the device will remain in “bypass”. The length of time necessary to wait to “start” the grill after turning on the LP cylinder valve is dependent on the length of the hose and outside air temperature. It is always good practice to wait a few seconds after opening the LP cylinder valve before turning on the burner control knob to start the grill. Keep in mind that the safety device reacts to a gas leak. If a grill is in bypass the gas connections and hose should be tested for leaks with a soap and water solution. If the grill is in bypass, after checking for gas leaks do the following to get the grill out of bypass: Cart Based Models

• Close the LP tank valve
• Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
• Open the grill lid
• Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
• Wait several seconds
• Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
• Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
• Turn remaining burners to High
• Close the lid.
• The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

Weber Q 100 and 200 series with an adapter hose and the Q 300 series.

• Close the LP tank valve
• Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
• Open the grill lid
• Turn the tank valve until it is completely open
• Wait at least 1 minute
• Turn the burner control knob to Hi/Start
• Press the igniter to light the burner
• Turn any remaining burner control knobs to High
• The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes.

To keep the regulator flow valve from tripping again, when you are done grilling always:

• Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
• Turn off the LP tank valve last 
  http://www.weber.com/bbq/pub/support/gasfaq.aspx

Are more BTU's better?
Not necessarily. BTU's are a measure of the heat output of the barbecue; however they do not tell you what cooking temperature the barbecue will achieve. BTU ratings by themselves are in no way related to cooking performance or the quality of any given product. As long as the barbecue gets hot enough to sear your steaks properly it doesn't matter how many BTU's it takes to get there. The real question to ask is not how many BTU's does it have but, how hot will it get?
http://www.weber.com/bbq/pub/support/gasfaq.aspx

Why is cast iron considered better for cooking grids?
Although we consider all cooking grids to be of high quality and performance, cast iron is a much heavier metal then most barbecue cooking grids. Because of it’s high density it is very effective for searing most meats (such as steak, chicken, and hamburgers). The grids are multi-level and have channeled grooves to allow extra grease and juices to run off.
http://www.grillsdirect.com/gas-grills/grillstovefryerfaqsarticle.cfm

Why is it important to season cast iron grids?
 Just like a cast iron frying pan it is necessary to season, and re-season, cast iron cooking grids. The oil will help protect the porcelain coating, decrease sticking, and protect damaged or worn grids from rusting. Only use household cooking oils (Olive, Vegetable, Peanut, Sunflower, Canola, to name a few).
http://broilkingbbq.com/grillpro/faq.asp?cateID=9&faqID=12

My push button doesn’t work anymore. What could have gone wrong?
The push button starting system is a two part system consisting of the push button and the electrode. The button is almost fail safe, if it clicks, then it works. Sometimes the electrode will develop a build up of grease or oxidization that may hamper the performance of the spark. Most times this can be rectified by cleaning the electrode with a brush or carefully with a piece of sandpaper.
http://www.broilkingbbq.com/Sterling/faq.asp

I see what I think is peeling paint inside the lid of my Weber grill! What should I do?
Don't worry, its not paint; the inside surfaces of Weber grill lids are not painted, they are coated with baked-on porcelain enamel which cannot peel. What you are noticing is a deposit of grease and smoke that collects during normal use. During use, the grease and smoke vapors slowly oxidize into carbon and collect on the inside of your lid. This deposit will eventually peel, and looks very similar to paint. The peeling grease normally starts in the center of the lid and spreads outward. It may come off in sheets or flakes, and is shiny on one side and dull on the other. These carbon deposits are non-toxic, but you might want to regularly remove the build-up. Fortunately, the peeling is easy to remove. Simply brush off all loose particles with a brass brush or crumpled aluminum foil before you start grilling. To prevent future build-up, after every grilling session, while the grill lid is warm-not hot-wipe it with paper towels or a mild soap-and-water solution.
http://www.weber.com/bbq/pub/support/gasfaq.aspx

Where do I find the model and serial number on my barbecue?
The model and serial numbers are located on the gas caution sticker. This sticker is located in one of three locations, either on the bottom shelf down by the wheels, on the rear cart support bar, located on the back of the barbecue just below the bottom casting, and inside the barbecue cart on the right or left hand side.

Can I convert my liquid propane barbecue to natural gas (or vice-versa)?
Yes and No. Only North American made barbecues. The more specific answer is that you can definitely convert almost any barbecue over to another gas, but the cost will be dependent upon the type and brand of barbecue you have. Some manufacturers offer conversion kits that make things relatively simple. The least you will get away with is replacing the gas hose and the valves in addition to any fittings you need to connect everything together. Side-burners can further complicate matters. Some manufactures actually crimp connect all their fittings and components together, making it necessary to replace almost the entire internal workings of the barbecue! Your best bet is to contact us and speak with one of our experienced staff members about what exactly will be required to convert your specific barbecue.

What is an Overfill Protection Device propane tank?
Overfill Protection Device (O.P.D.) prevents accidental gas leaks caused by tank over-pressurization, the leading cause of tank gas leaks. The float in the tank will automatically stop filling at 80% capacity, leaving a 20% area for the expansion of the liquid propane when it is exposed to warmer temperatures. Without this safety feature, the relief valve may open and discharge propane, creating a potential safety hazard. Propane tanks equipped with the O.P.D. safety feature are easily identified by their triangular valve wheel.
http://www.fiestabbq.com/showroom/propane.html

I see what I think is peeling paint inside the lid of my grill! What should I do?
Don't worry, it ain't paint; the inside surfaces of our grill lids are not painted, they are coated with baked-on porcelain enamel which cannot peel. What you are noticing is a deposit of grease and smoke that collects during normal use. During use, the grease and smoke vapors slowly oxidize into carbon and collect on the inside of your lid. This deposit will eventually peel, and looks very similar to paint. The peeling grease normally starts in the center of the lid and spreads outward. It may come off in sheets or flakes, and is shiny on one side and dull on the other. These carbon deposits are non-toxic, but you might want to regularly remove the build-up. Fortunately, the peeling is easy to remove. Simply brush off all loose particles with a brass brush or crumpled aluminum foil before you start grilling. To prevent future build-up, after every grilling session, while the grill lid is warm-not hot-wipe it with paper towels or a mild soap-and-water solution.
http://www.weber.com/bbq/pub/support/gasfaq.aspx

What is a BTU?
A British Thermal Unit (BTU) is the amount of heat energy needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree F. This is the standard measurement used to state the amount of energy that a fuel has as well as the amount of output of any heat generating device.
You might be able to imagine it this way. Take one gallon (8 pounds) of water and put it on your stove. If the water it 60 degrees F. and you want to bring it to a boil (212 degrees F.) then you will need about 1,200 BTUs to do this.
All combustible materials have a BTU rating. For instance, propane has about 15,000 BTUs per pound. Charcoal has about 9,000 BTUs per pound and wood (dry) has about 7,000 BTUs per pound. This gives you an idea of how much fuel you'd need to, say, cook something.
http://bbq.about.com/od/gasgrills/g/gbtu.htm

Burner Materials
 Different materials are used in burner construction with some materials being more resistant to corrosion than others. All warranty periods below are as generally given by the grill manufacturers for the types of material listed. Individual warranties vary greatly among manufacturers and burner life is greatly dependent on usage, maintenance and environment.
Aluminized Steel - Galvanized type steel which is commonly used in lower end grills.
Porcelain Coated Steel - A baked on porcelain enamel finished steel.
Stainless Steel - The most common material used and can be found in low end through upper end grills. There are different grades of stainless steel in addition to different gauges or thickness.
Cast Iron - Solid molded cast iron. Cast iron is subject to drying and flaking and should be oiled and maintained to enjoy full life expectancy.
Cast Brass - Solid molded cast brass. The least common burner, only available on several distinct models of upper end grills.
Cleaning - Wire brush the burner exterior to remove loose corrosion and excessive residue. Clean clogged gas holes with an opened paper clip. Check burner assembly for corrosion damage or any opening that would emit excess air. Replace corroded or damaged burners.

Cooking Grills
Cooking grills come in a variety of styles and materials. The most common are chrome plated and porcelain coated rod. Also available are cast iron, porcelain coated cast iron, stainless steel and porcelain coated steel. Many grills are also equipped with a warming rack that rests above the primary cooking surface, which can be used for both keeping foods warm and as a cooking area when using an indirect method of cooking.Chrome plated - Generally the least expensive cooking grids. They are subject to rusting and food sticking, however should provide several years of satisfactory service. Warming racks are generally chrome plated.

Porcelain coated rod - Their shiny black or gray porcelain coating makes these cooking grids easier to clean and helps prevent the food from sticking. Care must be taken not to chip the porcelain coating which will expose the steel rod and allow rusting. A soft brass bristled brush should be used to clean the grids. Scraping will damage the coating. Porcelain coated grids vary in quality by the thickness of the rod and the thickness of the porcelain coating.

Stainless steel - Offering excellent rust resistance, these grids generally have a wide configuration allowing easy food handling and providing wide sear marks. They cool easily and meats may have a tendency to stick.

Cast iron - Offering the most mass, these grids have excellent searing capabilities as they retain their heat the longest. They are available with or without a porcelain coating and because they are so heavy, should last for many years. Non-porcelain coated cast iron grids require curing with vegetable oil in a manner similar to curing a cast iron frying pan.

Maintenance Hints.....Cleaning - Cooking grids can be cleaned by heating them in the grill with the lid closed much like using a self cleaning oven. A layer of aluminum foil over the grids will help concentrate the heat. Do not overheat your grill, and do not leave your grill unattended. A maximum of 5 to 10 minutes on HIGH is recommended by most grill manufactures. After baking, brush the loose residue from the grids with a brass bristled brush. If desired they can then be cleaned with a mild soap and water.

Coating - Coat the cooking grids with vegetable oil before cooking. This helps prevent the food from sticking and makes cleaning easier.

Rusting - There is no fix for chipped away porcelain and rusting food grids. Clean away rust and coat with vegetable oil. Do not paint cooking grids or any cooking surface.

Troubleshooting / Glossary The control valves supply and regulate the gas flow to the burner.
These valves have a spring loaded locking feature and are designed to lock into place when the valve is in the OFF position. The valve must be depressed by pushing in the control knob while turning to the ON position. If a problem occurs with the valve lock not releasing, check that the valve stem extends sufficiently from the control panel and is allowing full depression of the control knob which releases the locking device.

Repair parts
 Individual repair parts for control valves are not available. Replacement is necessary if a control valve becomes broken or frozen and replacements for some models are available individually or may occasionally require replacement as a set. Valve configuration varies widely between makes and models of gas grills and must be ordered specifically for your make and model of grill.

Orifice cleaning
The valve orifice is an integral part of the control valve. Orifices on the valves will sometimes plug from either insects invading through the venturi or from debris inside the supply line. Orifices can be removed for cleaning. Use an orifice cleaning tool or small wire to clear orifice hole. Use caution not to scratch or damage the orifice hole. Do not operate grill without orifice in place. This poses an extremely dangerous fire hazard.Orifice size
 The orifice, in conjunction with the control valve, acts to regulate and restrict the amount of gas delivered to the burner. The hole size in the orifice varies by the gas supply pressure and by the BTU rating of the burner. Grills equipped for LP gas operate at a much higher gas pressure and therefore have a smaller size orifice.

Conversion kits
Conversion kits are available for changing the grill gas supply from propane to natural gas for some brands of grills. Generally included in the kit are proper sized orifices and a flexible hose and quick connect assembly.

Knobs
Control knobs vary greatly between grill brands. The variances are the knob shaft length, clockwise and counter clockwise bezel, and the OFF position. Original equipment knobs grarantee a proper fit and indication. In addition, universal replacement knobs are available that can be set up for most brand grills.

Ignitor System
Igniter systems most commonly consist of a gas collector box, ceramic electrode, wire and igniter push button. Contrary to popular belief, these igniter systems are highly dependable and should provide several years of dependable performance. Most igniter problems that we have encountered are actually burner related problems or a result of excessive grease and char buildup.

How they work
When the gas is turned on at the control knob it begins to flow to the burner and escapes through the burner ports. As the gas escapes it accumulates in the collector box and is ignited by an electric spark generated when the igniter push-button is activated.

Testing
With the gas shut off watch the electrode tip inside the gas collector while activating the igniter. It may be necessary to use a small hand mirror to see inside the collector box. A spark should jump from the electrode tip to the collector box or from the electrode tip to the burner for burner mounted electrodes. If you are getting spark and the grill still will not light, check the venturi tubes for blockage. Gas escaping at the venturis may catch fire at the control valves.

No spark.....

• Check the wire connections for corrosion or looseness. Operate the pushbutton while watching the connections from the underside of the grill to assure the spark isn't jumping from a connection to the grill body.
• Check that the electrode isn't cracked or broken. It is normal for the wire to fit loosely in the porcelain.
• Greasy electrode? The spark will track through the grease to the grill body. If this happens, replacement is required.
• Dirt and rust on the electrode wire tip, or the metal surface that accepts the spark, can prevent the electrode from sparking. Remove rust by lightly sanding with emery cloth or fine sandpaper.
• Check that the burner ports are not clogged and possibly preventing gas to enter the collector box.
• The locking nut on the push-button serves as an electrical ground. Loosen it first and retighten to assure a good connection.
• Moisture also plays a key roles in no spark issuses.

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The Information seen here was taken from various websites over the years. I am unable to give proper credit to the some original sources. The information seen here is for reference only. Please search the internet for more detailed information. Johnstone’s does not take credit for any information seen on this page.